Truly speaking, fragrance making in India has been part of its culture, traditions and livelihood together. Crafting of fragrances had been a noble profession and it enjoyed royal patronage in medieval age.
Also, you find record of fragrance making in India in the Brihat Samhita, an encyclopaedia authored by the philosopher Varahamihira. He was a 6th century Indian astronomer, mathematician, and astrologer who lived in Ujjain.
Further, Indian Classical texts, Ayurveda and scriptures like Vedas make mentions of fragrances. Scents and fragrances have found importance in worship and healing in ancient India. Ample evidences are there that the art of creating scents originated in vaster region of pre-historic India.
Additionally, evidence of fragrance/attar in ancient times is provided by the ayurvedic text Charaka Samhita. Also, the Gandhayukti another credible text dating back to the Vedic period, lists ingredients to fragrance. Gandhayukti also offers recipes for various perfumes, soaps, mouth fresheners, talcum powders and incense.
Ours is the land which cradled humanity’s very first civilization and fragrance making in India has been trail blazer.
Attars of Rose, Kewra, Lavender, Mogra, Jasmine, Raat Rani, Henna, Motia & Patchouli are very much Indians. Plainly, they are assuming the names of Indian flowers.
Similarly, Sandalwood, Agarwood, Zafran, Khus, Majmua, Amber, Kasturi/Black Musk & Mitti are very much native to India. They all assume the names of woods OR animalic extracts.
Flitmart has made a list of best attar in India where you can find these legendary names.
Purity Was Central to Fragrance Making in Early Days
Early days’ fragrances were inspired by purity and natural being. Fragrances of olden times had similar concept as of attars today. Basically, attars are aromatic oils extracted from botanical sources. They are distillates of flowers, herbs, spices and other natural materials such as baked soil over sandalwood oil or liquid paraffin. The initial days’ hydro distillation techniques are still in use today in Kannauj in India.
Basically, fragrance oil from one single botanical source makes a standalone smell. A note of attar/ perfume can have one single sourced oil or a mix of many. And, usually three notes make a perfume today viz. top note, middle note and base note. On application of a perfume you can experience the fragrance in this order. Experimentation on combining the essential oils from different sources and alcohols evolved gradually. However, concept of attar is about a natural scent, it has no alcohol and hence thought to have been approved by the Prophet Mohammed.
Thus, the fragrances under name of ATTAR made their way into Muslim Community. Some of the first fans of the pure essence oils were the Mughal nobles of India. After the decline of the Mughal dynasty in the 18th century, the Nawabs governed Awadh and became its rulers. Court historian Abu’l-Fazl ibn Mubarak chronicled Mughal emperor Akbar’s regular usage of attar and incense sticks in the Ain-e-Akbari (Constitution of Akbar) a 16th-century document.
Multiple Purpose of Early Fragrance Making
Basically, fragrances in worship in ancient time, acted like a medium to connect human spirit with its universal source and creator. On that note, Ayurveda having originated from Vedas speaks as to how the fragrances exhilarate your senses. It elucidates the after effect, that leads to comfort of heart, gladdening of the spirit, feeling of liberation and healing. Obviously, the concept of aroma and fragrance making has been very native to land of India. And, few of the best attars of world, you can find in India as well.
On religious note, fragrances served as pure offerings in worship & rituals, and a medium to align senses with source creator. Also, different fragrances served different purpose of creating desired ambience.
On top of everything, Ayurveda had given wider dimension to fragrances for their healing properties. You may not wonder that modern aromatherapy is simply the culmination of Aroma Ayurveda.
Fragrance Making in India And Their Nomenclature
Basically, difference from the old times’ and present day’s fragrances is the manipulation evolved along. The old days’ fragrances were pure essences, or pure essential oils. Advancement of technology allowed people to experiment with these pure essences and manipulation took the centre stage. So to speak, adulteration and blending of fragrances was not an idea, not even remotely.
Rose attar came from Roses, Jasmine fragrances came from Jasmine flowers and so on. The fragrances used to assume the name of the very source they were extracted from. Whereas, the traditional names of fragrances were plain and simple, today’s is shiny. Moreover, today’s nomenclature might leave you confused altogether.
Conclusively, fragrances making have been integral to us and best attar in India existed pre-historically. Discovery of Deg and Bhapka method by archaeology used in fragrance making corroborates our conviction. Excavations sites of Indus valley have led our belief this far.
Learning how to make fragrance oils lies at the core of any fragrance crafting.
Fragrance Making in India Has Given Some Best Ones in Class
Honestly, fragrances have to be natural and India has been pioneers in making such fragrances. Attars of Rose, Kewra, Lavender, Mogra, Jasmine, Raat Rani, Henna, Motia & Patchouli are basically pure essences of these flowers. On a similar note, Sandalwood, Agarwood, Zafran, Khus, Majmua, Amber, Kasturi/Black Musk & Mitti are also natural fragrances from respective ingredients.
Basically, they are unadulterated pure essence of nature, and are best attar in India for all great reasons. Be it, your penchant for fragrances, health, spirituality, Indian climate compatibility or going Natural, they are the best.
However, you must exercise caution to the extent that you buy them from trusted sellers only. Note of caution though, is for the reason of growing consumerism and offering things at competitive prices. For sake of convenience, you can make use of the best attar online list.
Learning to make fragrance oils lies at the core of every fragrance crafting, be it attar or perfume.
Deg & Bhapka is Native to Fragrance Making in India
Learning to make fragrance oils lies at the core of any fragrance crafting.
Not Knowing Deg and Bhapka is kind of missing out key aspect to buy the best attar in India.
On record, Deg and Bhapka method is the most traditional method to manufacture the Attar oils. The method involves three equipment. The Deg is a large copper vessel for boiling. The Bhapka is a copper vessel with a large belly and narrow long neck. Whereas, the Chonga is a hallow bamboo pipe that connects Deg and Bhapka.
Usually, this traditional process of making essential oil takes around 10-15 days. The ingredients for Top or Middle note are soaked in water and heated in large Deg. Raw ingredients for boiling can be flowers, aromatic spices, herbs, roots etc. The effusing vapours carrying the aroma essentials reaches Bhapka through the Chonga. The Bhapka already contains pure Sandalwood oil which is the base oil for attar in the most cases. Being a great fixative, sandalwood oil is the preferred choice of Base Note.
Whereas, Deg is at heating side, Bhapka remains other side inside a cooling tank. It condenses the vapours which carries both water and the aromatic oil. Molecules of sandalwood oil already present in the Bhapka soaks molecules of aromatic oil. Post cooling the oil mix repels the water available. Subsequently, using decantation method you can separate the two components oils & water from each other.
Actually, the process of distillation and decantation of water is repeated several times for as many as 10-15 days. In the process the sandalwood oil in the Bhapka gets fully saturated and eventually, it completely gives up its own fragrance and acquires the fragrance of the ingredients used for boiling.
Fragrance Making in India- Reference Sources
Backed by records, fragrance making in India has relations of ages. Flavour Development Centre of India (FFDC), is of the opinion that ‘Deg & Bhapkas’ used today to make perfume in Kannauj has the same design as used in Indus Valley Civilization. The observation has official corroboration by the Dragoco report by Dr. Paolo Ravesti.
Based on evidences, the profound art of distilling perfume in Kannauj is around 5000 years old. So, the Indian fragrance making finds its root in distant pre-historic Indian Civilization. Moreover, evidences suggest that the fragrances/attars reached out to Akbar’s khushboo Khana, Jehangir and Shahjehan from Kannauj only.
On record, Kannauj the small city of Uttar Pradesh, specializes in six versions of perfumes. To name, Rose, Henna, Shamama Henna, Mogra, Bela and Mitti Attar (Fragrance of Soil) are there.
Mitti Attar is the typical production of Kannauj and it is very much same as ‘Petrichor’ (Greek: Petra- Rock, Ikhor- Tears of God). The ‘Petrichor’ forms the central mention of ‘Nature of Argillaceous Odour’ documentation. Relevant to note that, Scent of Soil is the central theme of world famous documentation ‘Nature of Argillaceous Odour’ by I.J Bear and R.G Thomas written in 1964.
So, India being pioneer of fragrance making, you can buy the best attar from trailblazing native brands. You can use list of best attar in India and the exclusive list of best attar online in India as reference.
Fragrance Making in India- Evolution Through Ages
The world believes that fine art of fragrance making has its origin in India. Excavations in the Indus Valley reveals that 5000 years old copper vessels are same as that of today’s used in the distillation process of fragrance oil making. Sadly, the documentation on how to make fragrance oils Or attar oils is not available.
However, it would be inaccurate to state that all attars had their beginnings in the Indian Subcontinent. Fragrances in one form or another have been used throughout history, across geographies and cultures. The holy Bible mentions three wise men visiting the baby Jesus with gifts of myrrh and frankincense. Moreover, there are records that fragrances were also much favoured by the Egyptians and the Romans too.
Kannauj, once the seat of power of Emperor Harshavardhana prides itself as the ‘Attar City’ of India. Distillers in the city used aroma-bearing substances like sandal, musk, jasmine, and saffron to create perfumes. However, the range of such essences was further enriched when new botanical sources were introduced by invaders.
In the medieval age attars, begins with the creation of rooh gulab (rose-scented attar) during the reign of Jehangir. His wife, the Empress Noorjahan, was fond of taking bath with rose petals left to soak water. On one occasion she noticed an oily film on the surface of the water. When it was discovered that the film had an aromatic property, subsequent experimentation followed. The experimentation established the process for making floral attars by distillates obtained by the hydro-distillation of flowers in Sandalwood Oil.
Today’s best attars in India had to undergo many stages of evolution through ages.
Fragrance Making in India by Shama Brothers & Perfumers
Truly, Shama have been one of the pioneers of fragrances making in India. They ably craft some of the best attars in India. Possibly, centuries back Shama were few people, who knew how to make fragrance oils in India.
In fact, Badi AL Zaman Shama began his perfumery on the outskirts of Agra in 1615. His skill and ingenuity in fragrance making, won him a following among the city’s wealthy elite. The reputation continued to grow, and an emissary from the court of Shahjehan happened to pay him a visit.
Down the line, in 1658 when Aurangzeb ascended throne, Badi had established four perfumeries. The next generation Shama family took the business of perfumery to all new heights.
Decades further, Shama was selling in many cities around Agra: Ajmer, Kalinjar, Allahabad, Gwalior, and of course, the new capital of Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi ). By 1720, Shama attars was favourite of many elite customers: nawabs, military commanders, representatives of the East India Company, and, of course, the Nizams of Hyderabad. Shama was able to craft many fragrances as Oudh, musk-e-amber, ruh gulaab, khus, and mukhullat.
Finally, in 1890, Kamal Shah Shama moved the family business from Agra to Bhendi Bazaar, Mumbai, to expand into exports. The enterprise, which runs under the name “Shama Brothers & Perfumers” has its own research and production centres. The centres are strategically located near the botanical wealth of horticultural estates in Agra and Haryana State.
Today, Shama has recognitions in Gulf countries, Iraq, South Africa, the UK, the USA, Canada, Pakistan apart from India.
(Other pioneers of fragrance making will follow shortly in the article)
Land of India is Pretty Much Conducive to And Backs Fragrance Making
To our advantage, India has regions spanning from the Snow-Capped Himalayas to the Thar Desert, from the Ganges Plains to the Tropical Rain Forests in the South. As a result, this diversity has bestowed abundant varieties of Fragrant Roots, Woods, Leaves, Flowers, Fruits and Spices on India.
Originally, Ayurveda was born in Ancient India and continues to flourish today because of countries abundant Natural resources. The use of Natural Perfumery Ingredients by man in India goes back through the Ages, to the Indus Valley Civilization.
Historically, Nur Jahan, the wife of Emperor Jehangir directed her Gardeners to plant the Damascus Rose which she had received as a gift from the Sultan of Turkey (Ottoman empire). Rose Attar or Otto of Rose was made from these roses for the queen. The attar industry flourished around Agra & Delhi.
There are references that, when Akbar laid siege to Udaipur, the army settled in the area of Haldi Ghati. The Rose Damascena variety was planted in the region by the Mughal army. The nascent Attar Industry in the Udaipur region was later patronized by the priests of the Shrinathji temple which is about 10 to 15 kms from this region.
Kannauj the “attar city” is so named because of high quality fragrance oil production and rich fertile land for many natural ingredients for fragrances. It is home to some of the best attars in India and world.
Nodal Centre of Fragrance Making in India Responsible for Promotion and Guidance
Fragrance & Flavour Development Centre (FFDC) based at Kannauj is central point for extending assistance in perfumery Industry. The FFDC functions as an Autonomous Body under Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSME), Govt of India.
Essentially, they conduct several courses and training programmes to raise the skill of people engaged in the fragrance Industry.
FFDC aims to serve as an interface between essential oil, fragrance & flavour industry AND the R & D institutions both in the field of agro technology and chemical technology.
Also, it serves, sustain and upgrade the status of farmers and the industry engaged in essential oil, fragrance and flavour.
It’s a unique centre worldwide to serve the Agro to Chemical technology of essential oil, fragrance and flavour. However, FFDC has lot to do in helping come up best attar brands in terms of R&D.
Kannauj is the ‘Grasse’ of the East for Fragrance Making
Yes, if you have penchant for art of fragrance making, consider visiting Grasse of the East, Kannauj. Grasse is a town on the French Riviera, in the hills north of Cannes. The world knows Grasse for its long-established perfume industry.
Not to wonder, the perfumers of Kannauj even capture the scent of the rain – petrichor – from the soil. Possibly, kannauj people were the first in India who figured how to make fragrance oils/attar oils.
The base required to extract the perfume from these ingredients is sandalwood, jojoba or vetiver. Rooh Gulab attar extracted from rose with sandalwood oil as base costs about Rs.1,200,000 / kg. Accordingly, distillers & perfumers of Kannauj make some of the best attars as on client’s demand.
Even today, distillers of Kannauj do not make use of machines. Experienced human hands, nose and eyes are behind the fragrance making of Kannauj. The process involves rustic and time-honoured basic set-up.
Large Copper vessel Deg and next end sitting Bhapka connected by Chonga do the basics of distilleries in Kannauj.
Basically, you heat Deg from below by burning cow dung or acacia wood. It then connects to a long-necked receiver or the bhapka containing base (sandalwood/jojoba/vetiver) through a bamboo pipe called chonga.
Deg contains water-soaked flower petals and Bhapka sitting inside cool water collects the oil released after heating Deg. Heating Deg at right temperature for right period of time and collecting fragrance from Bhapka needs monitoring by expert distillers. Importantly, these skills are passed on from one generation to another – father to son.
Proudly, the attars of Kannauj have geographical tag for their exclusivity.
Potential of Fragrance Making in India
Chiefly, advances in organic chemistry made late 19th century as real era of perfumes. France became a hub for fragrance Industry and a go-to place for learning art of perfumery.
Today, people have special perfumes for special occasions, meaning they are having multiple fragrances instead a single signature.
In 2016, the global fragrance market was estimated to be worth about USD 40.1 billion while Indian market stood barely at USD 0.35 billion. It is however increasing at highest ever rate.
Hot and humid climate conditions and increasing population of working class in India has expanded consumer market in India.
India hasn’t done enough to capitalize its fragrance production potential. Especially, the Govt has a lot to do for development of the Indian essential oil, fragrance & flavour industry. It feels, FFDC alone is unable to do all the fragrance industry of India needs for development to its potential.
Even today, extraction of fragrance oils is very much traditional in India, Manufactures are largely unorganized and lack policy level support from govt to produce best attar in India.
To start with, forming a special task force to study on production potential is the need. Secondly, a dedicated university to train local learners to create exotic fragrances feels necessity. Further, investment policy on Research & Development at par with international institutions seems required.
Scientific exploitation of aromatic plants will help grow the industry. Further, setting up of small-scale essential oil extraction and processing units would create employment opportunities. Also, incentivizing local farmers for large-scale cultivation of aromatic crops would help bloom fragrance Industry. Lastly, generalizing the skill of how to make fragrance oils can do a lot. All the steps together, can bring a great economic advantage to India.
Indians are Breaking All Stereotypes in Fragrance making And Setting new Paradigms
We all know, capturing the smell of Soil is nothing new to Kannauj Perfumers. They have been doing this since long. But, Indian perfumers like Manan Gandhi is raising the bar for everybody else to chase.
What does a city smell like, and how different is the smell of Delhi from Goa? How does one capture memories in a bottle? Indian perfumers are venturing into uncharted territory with these preoccupations.
Manan’s family had been in business of fragrances for a while. In 2012, he founded a startup in Grasse — the heart of French perfumery with aim to supply fragrance ingredients to perfume houses across Europe. But, he wanted to do more. Idea was to build a brand that would pay homage to the beautiful Indian naturals. To him, there was no homegrown, contemporary, luxury fragrance range that would appeal to the millennial consumer.
So, in 2016, he launched Bombay Perfumery, which offers a range of eight scents with names such as Calicut or Madurai Talkies. These perfumes are Made in Grasse by a team of international perfumers but are bottled in India meant for the Indian millennial. Coming up of best attar brands and manufacturing of Best attars in India needs incentivizing budding startups. Encouraging how to make fragrance oils of your own as a household skill set could be the best move by govt.
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